Women of Talent

One month ago, at the end of the Fashion week at Milan’s City Hall, Palazzo Marino, Elle Italy hosted 100 Donne di Talento (100 Women of Talent) event that talked about women of excellence working in design, fashion, and architecture.

It was open to the public, so I grabbed my camera and went inside, feeling excited for a brush with the glossy magazine world.
The first speaker was the Mayor of Milan, Letizia Moratti, who talked about the woman’s position in the Italian society, and supporting initiatives like one year of maternity leave fully paid. This is a thorny and controversial issue, because in the current economic climate, the possibility that a woman employee goes on maternity leave for one year, could be a risk that the businesses aren’t probably willing to take and although it is illegal, they could discriminate against a woman of reproductive age.

Mayor of Milan Letizia Moratti in red.

Moratti’s presence and elegant speech, proved how one can be a woman politician and still have a stylish and feminine appearance. For men in professional positions, including politicians, it is a much easier task: wear a well tailored suit and be done with it. But women in high positions are more judged on their appearance and dress sense and therefore are faced with the dilemma: uber-power-dressing or should one dress more femininely and be considered too "girly" or even a fashion victim? Sometimes the tendency is to eliminate anything that could remind the audience that you are in fact a woman. However, it could be argued that if dressing femininely is considered weak then it would follow that there is something wrong with being a woman to begin with. Of course that a woman politician's wardrobe should not be the only thing that is talked about and not distract from her political message. In this case, Coco Chanel's quote that if you dress "impeccably they remember the woman", could be to dress impeccably so that people would remember both the woman and the woman's political message. Letizia Moratti’s case is a perfect example of understated style and fashion advisers of high flying women everywhere should have an eye on her for inspiration.

After the Mayor’s departure, there was another key speaker—Mr. Roger Abravanel, ex director of McKinsey & Company and the author of the book Meritocrazia (Meritocracy) who is currently involved in a project to reform the Italian school system based on merit and competence. During his speech Mr. Abravanel underlined the need for more women in leadership positions. That is surely an ambitious goal as Italy’s society is based on the transmission of the family business from father to son and it has a guild-like organization. Mr. Roger Abravanel on the left.

As further proof, I could not help noticing how many of the women, shown as example of (Italian) excellence, presented on the big screen were clearly the heiresses of brands started by their fathers, uncles etc.

Mr. Abravanel has also suggested the necessity of women’s working comes from the fact that in the past, the life expectancy was much lower and now with people living up to 80 women should get out of the house more to avoid boring their husbands. At that moment I felt particularly empowered.

At the end of the discussions there were a couple of questions from the audience. An interesting question came from a lady who asked if there could be more women in leading positions in ambits of business that are not considered “feminine”. 
Overall, the event looked less like a discussion about merit and excellence and more like a private party. Why did I think that a discussion organized by a glossy magazine would feel all democratic and friendly? Should we really believe what Wintour says—Vogue is like “your stylish older sister”? Or is it that the glossies are more like well put-together press releases for the big brands that advertise in their pages than filled with sisterly desinterested advice for their respected readers?



© Snappy Style 2010.

Milano Loves Fashion—Anna Wintour in Piazza Duomo Milano

Tonight (Sunday 26 September) the editrix of American Vogue, Anna Wintour in an unusual public appearance could be seen sitting in the first row near Franca Sozzani, the editor of Italian Vogue on a specially erected stage in Piazza Duomo in Milan Centre.

The creations of ten finalists of the fashion scouting contest Who's on Next were presented tonight as part of the Milano Loves Fashion initiative.
There were sheer fabrics, some with applique flowers and silky floaty designs. There were also fringes, black tutus and knee-lenght, thirties style dresses that had a tie-dyed look with hues of grey, white, black and turquoise. I particularly liked the red dress worn with pants over the knee. Pants with geometrical designs in different shades of blue with blue electric standing out were worn with a sort of Batman-style rubber tank top.

There was a particular noteworthy look: while from the huge speakers Middle Eastern music could be heard, a model wearing orientalistic harem pants worn with a face-covering veil, all in white, appeared on the stage. Particularly controversial as these past weeks European countries like France and Belgium have imposed a ban on wearing the full veil in public.

A funny moment of almost lèse majesté, was when the song "I Wear My Sunglasses at Night" was played with only Ms Wintour having her never-missing sunglasses on. Or maybe it was just another way to point out her mystique. Of course Wintour was the last to arrive and the first to leave with an army of long-legged fashion minions around her to show her to her seet and the ever present bodyguard standing in front of her lest some mere mortal will dare to near her.

In Italiano:

Stasera l'editrix di Vogue America in un inusuale apparizione nel pubblico poteva essere vista nella prima fila insieme a Franca Sozzani, l'editrice di Vogue Italia su un palcoscenico eretto specialmente in Piazza Duomo nel centro di Milano.
Le creazioni dei dieci finalisti del concorso di fashion scouting Who is On Next sono state presentate stasera come parte dell'iniziativa Milano Loves Fashion.

Ci sono stati dei materiali trasparenti, con fiori applicati e di seta leggeri e fluidi; delle frange, e tutù neri. Dei vestiti fino al ginocchio, con un look anni Trenta, colorati con la tecnica tie dye, in grigio, bianco, nero e turquoise. Mi e piaciuto particolarmente il vestito rosso indossato con pantaloni sopra in ginocchio.

Pantaloni con modelli geometrici in diversi toni di blu, soprattutto blu elettrico sono stati combinati con una sorta di top di gomma a la Batman.

C'è stato un look particolarmente notevole: mentre dalle enormi casse si sentiva musica dal Medio oriente, una modella è apparsa in pantaloni orientaleggianti harem, indossati con il velo che le copriva la faccia, tutta in bianco. Un look controverso poiché in queste ultime settimane paesi europei come Francia e Belgio hanno imposto il divieto di mettere il velo in pubblico.

Un momento divertente e quasi lèse majesté è stato quando la canzone "I Wear My Sunglasses at Night" (metto gli occhiali da sole di notte) si è potuta sentire, con la sola Wintour avendo i suoi immancabili occhiali da sole. O forse è stato solamente un altro modo per farci notare la sua aria di mistero. Ovviamente Anna Wintour è stata l'ultima ad arrivare e la prima ad andare via con un esercito di assistenti con gambe lunghe ad accompagnarla al suo posto e con l'inevitabile bodyguard in piedi davanti a lei in caso che qualche comune mortale si volesse avvicinare.

© Snappy Style 2010. All rights reserved.